Blog | BerleyPro

Slayer Live Wells

We recently just finished our design for a Native Watercraft Slayer 10 and 13 live well. These were made to fit bass and bream in, for the guys competing in tournaments. These are made from 41L Waeco coolers so they are insulated when its a super hot day to keep your fish cool and healthy.

First up was making a mount for the rear hatch to put a switch and allow a cable to pass though.



The chilly bins sides sit over the scuppers in the rear so the pump couldn’t go in the esky. This turned out OK as the scuppers are large enough under the seat to fit the pump so there is no hassle with it priming as it sits pretty close to the water line. I cut the top of a scupper and made a disc to locate the pump in the scupper when its pushed down.



The pump clears the seat nicely



We wired the pump to run along the hose and be connected to a waterproof plug on the rear hatch cover. This is so it can be easily removed if you aren’t using the live well. The wiring runs through the hull to a single battery at the front of the kayak.



Here’s a shot of one of Reece’s bass super healthy after being in there most of the morning!



Let us know what you think!



Outboard Mount For Hobie Adventure Island

Recently Rado owner of Rado’s Rental Rafts had an idea of putting a 2.5hp Suzuki motor on the side of his 2016 Hobie Adventure Island. Here’s what we came up with…



We laser cut and folded the mount from 316 stainless and TIG welded it. This presses over the rear crossbar.



The mount had to be low enough to use a short shaft outboard (15″ leg) so it sits just above the bar like this. We machined a piece of marine ply that fills the whole cavity above the arm and then put two plastic plates for the motor to sit on.



The rear bar is made from some 316 tube with bushes welded in the ends and 2 Railblaza starports to help support the motor so all the force isn’t on the cross bar. The bar is made to fit with the Hobie livewell.

We took the motor out for a quick spin but now its time to get it rigged for chasing tuna!

StructureScan 3d Transducer mount for a Hobie

With the technology increasing everyday with fish finder electronics, Lowrance has released the new StructureScan 3d transducers. Unfortunately these transducers do not fit with our existing TotalScan ready transducer mounts so it was time for a new one. This new transducer mount fits in the same Lowrance ready location of Hobie kayaks. There is no modifications needed and this kit comes with an adaptor plate and a cover which is thermoformed from 3mm ABS plastic.



We have had great feedback from out customers using the TotalScan ready mount so we produced this mount with the same key features of being tough to offer protection and also as low profile as possible so it reduces inconvenience when loading and landing.



This transducer mount features 3 drain holes in the base of the mount to allow sand and debris to be washed out while moving or by squirting water down the transducer scupper from above. By having this transducer surrounded by water it provides an accurate water temperature reading.



The only thing to remember is the two plugs on the transducer are now too big to suit the Hobie thru hull gland that is normally installed so this will need to be replaced with the new Hobie gland with the 3 outer screws.



Native Watercraft Ultimate FX Propel Live Well

I’ve just finished helping Ben Faro get his new Ultimate FX Propel ready for the Bass Australia Nation tournament next week at Clarrie Hall In NSW.

The one last part he needed was to fit a live well to hold the bass for weigh in. Unlike most sit on top kayaks I have worked on, plumbing this into the FX was going to be a first.

Ben grabbed a 41L chilly bin and we started by making some plates to locate the esky.



The LH plate is slotted to allow for any difference in the cooler. This is just adjusted by using the thumb screws in the track mounts.



The RH locating mount has a location for a pump also. This has been moved out so it will pickup the water and Ben can lay his rods horizontal next to it.



I put the battery in a sealed mount attached to the esky. This is able to be charged through the 2 pin plug and if not being used Ben can just plug it into the blanking plug to keep it water tight.



The pump is permanently attached to this plate and the pickup extends down into the water. The side plate has a waterproof switch in it so he can turn it on when needed.


Good luck for the weekend Ben!!!

Slayer Side Imaging Transducer Mount

Firstly happy new year everyone! Over the new year period I have been trying to come up with an idea how to mount transducers with side imaging on propels. I’ve been running a Raymarine Dragonfly transducer mounted on the propel cover and it works great. The only issue I have ever seen is going from forwards to reverse really quickly it can loose bottom momentarily but overall I think it works great.  Anyway… Next step is to come up with something that suits side imaging. This needs to be a mount that is clear of the hull… Here’s what I’ve knocked up as a prototype.



Its a simple idea by just by pushing forward on the lever it will lower the transducer towards the rear so its out of the way of the prop and also clear of the hull.



Here is how the transducer will sit retracted. I know this transducer isn’t side imaging, but currently is all I have to get an idea.



And down…



Time to get a side imaging transducer and test it on the water!

Humminbird Onix Ready Hobie

Recently I have just finished working on a new Hobie transducer mount to fit the Humminbird Onix HDSI transducer. This transducer is big which caused some problems….

The end idea was to have an adapter plate that screwed to the existing Lowrance Ready location. This would also locate the top of the transducer making it unable to move whilst in the mount.



I made a mold and machined the first for test fitting. To install it is as simple as removing the transducer guard and installing the Transducer Adapter.

removing-lowrance-ready-plate installing-transducer-adapter


The cable is then inserted through the kayak.




The transducer mount is then placed in the transducer guard.




The transducer guard and transducer are installed onto the adapter and the job is complete!




This mount provides both protection and a simple install. It has 6 drain holes so it can be drained and washed out by squirting a hose down the scupper above it. Time to get it on the water!




Above is a screen shot of the high definition side scan while using the transducer mount. This mount is providing full covered protection and also allowing the imaging to shoot straight through with no noticeable distortion to the image. In the above image you can clearly see two drains on either side while testing this unit in Patterson Lakes. To purchase your own click here


Also a big thanks to Tim and Hedrik who have helped design and test these parts!


I’ve recently been finishing off the new design for the slayer rudder but while my slayer is apart I thought this would be the perfect time to finish off the conversion from stainless cables to cord. I have been running a fairly agricultural version for the past year but I thought now was the time to tidy it up.

I made a couple of new plates for this under the handle. The cord is going to wrap around the posts that are machined into the plastic.



I have chosen to crimp the cord. Here is how they wrap around the posts.




I have offset the two posts so they can rotate around further. The crimps should also line up next to each other so they can’t rub on the cord as it turns.




I made a new handle mount without the steering stops. I plan on making a removable steering stop that bolts down on the top of the plate.




On the rudder disc I have created the same disc with two posts at the rear. The cord loops around these posts and then feeds out the existing holes.




I installed the rudder in the straight position and pulled the cord through. I just done a knot at the rear and then a couple of half hitches to tension the cord. I will cut the cord shorter once I am happy with this.




The rudder is now free to turn all the way to the hull.




Now its time to finish off the steering stop and get some of these on the water for testing. Here is a picture of how the rudder is coming along.



Early Season Snapper

This year I’ve decided to change up the way I fish for snapper from the kayak. I’m going to be trying a few different options and the first is placing soft plastics right on top of snapper(if I’m lucky). I’m going to keep posting up here with my stories of disappointment and success so hopefully it helps anyone looking at getting out there.

I’m going to start by using some Gulp Nuclear Chicken soft plastics in jigging grubs and Nemesis at 4″ to see if I can get a bite. I’m always going to be fishing as light as possible with my jig heads. I’ve got from 1/8 to 3/8.



I’m still yet to figure out the water temps and exactly how this affects snapper, but I believe while its cold the bite window is much shorter. Because of this I plan on hitting first light and last light in the hunt.




I’ve been fortunate enough to have Larry from LJ Custom rods make a rod that suits this application. I now have a 7 foot bait caster with spiral bound guides so I can drop the jig heads down without worrying about bail arms. I’ll put up some more photos of this rod in later posts but my first impressions of using this rod is great.




My basic plan is to paddle around until I see good sign on my fish finder and then drop a plastic down. I spent my first 3 sessions without seeing any decent fish until Monday morning. I saw my first decent mark and dropped a 1/8 jig head down with a Nemisis plastic. You can see the plastic heading down on the Raymarine Dragonfly fish finder onto the fish. I paddled backwards and forwards over these fish until my drift was going to put the plastic down on them.




As the line is slowly going down, I have kept this as even in the decent as possible. It got a good hit while the line was going down so I gave a tug and snagged my first snapper.




This fish went just on the 58cm mark which I was more then happy with.




I didn’t find any other fish for the morning but it was time to get back to work. The next wind free day I’ll be back out on Port Phillip Bay trying it again!

How To Show Battery Voltage On a Lowrance TI Fish Finder

Here is quick guide of how to show your supply voltage on your fish finder. This is a simple thing to do if you are running a Lowrance TI unit so you don’t have to worry about installing a separate voltage gauge. By having a voltage gauge on your unit, you can keep an eye on your battery level while you are on the water.




The first thing to do is tap the power button on the bottom right to bring up the following screen. Make sure “Data Overlay” has the orange indicator at the top to ensure this can be shown (Press this icon if it is not to toggle it on). Press the “Edit Overlay” icon as shown.




Press the “Add…” icon at the top right of the screen.




On the “Choose Data” screen scroll down by pressing your finger on the screen and moving it upwards.




Select “Other” and then select “Supply Voltage” so a tick is shown in the box as pictured. The supply voltage should be shown on the side with VSUPPLY above it.




The supply voltage is shown quite large from default. You can change this by pressing the supply voltage data so the blue box is highlighted around it and then by pressing configure.




This gives you the ability to change the size of all your overlay data plus you can position it anywhere on the screen by pressing the data and dragging it.




Once completed be sure to click “Save”




Here is a quick guide for what voltage you have in regards to how much battery life you have left.


State of Charge Sealed or Flooded Lead Acid Gel battery AGM battery
100% 12.70+ 12.85+ 12.80+
75% 12.40 12.65 12.60
50% 12.20 12.35 12.30
25% 12.00 12.00 12.00
0% 11.80 11.80 11.80


These new fish finders do draw a considerable amount of power. I recommend doing everything possible to save that battery life for long days on the water. You can do this by turning the wifi off and dimming the screen. We also make a range of fish finder visors that can help keep the glare down so it still remains easy to read when you are turning down that screen brightness.

I hope this helps!

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