Now that snapper season is here and I’ve done some kms (kilos, 1.6 km per mile, maybe done around 3 total…)… I’ve owned this Hobie Compass I got from SLHobie for nearly 1 year and here’s a rundown of the things I have fit it out with and what I want to change.
First things first. I always run a light. This is because I always fish first light and last light either to catch bait or when the bite really turns on. I just leave this on all day. The power consumption is low enough that I can run both my sounder and light and still get a full day with no issues.
To power all my gear I now use the lightweight 17.5AH FPV Lithium battery. I used to have this just in the cradle but I’ve had the cradle fall out because the battery doesn’t take up the whole space like the lead-acid battery, so we now make the mount pictured. Wet batteries and fuses is a recipe for frustration.
This is my chilli bin setup with Railblaza Rod holders. To be short I have a love-hate relationship with this. It makes the kayak a sail. It can be blowing less than 5 knots and I get a horrible drift going that spins me quickly. The benefit of having a pedal kayak should be to stay on a spot and fish. This makes it a pain. I’ll be removing this when I come up with a new way to run the rods.
I run the Side Bro on both sides. One I tuck in plastics, leader, scissors and a pair of pliers. The other I’m using for a junk bucket for jig heads and plastics. I also have the rectangular hatch replacing the round with 2 3600 Plano boxes with tackle in there.
The left-hand side for me I have taken up with all my electronics. This has the Raymarine Dragonfly 7 mounted with a carbon camera boom that is a ram/railblaza love child holding the GoBro for extreme selfie action. The Right-hand side I try to keep as free as possible. That is the “business” side.
- The compass is light
- Speed over propeller is quicker with less effort
- Rectangular hatch storage is awesome
What I Want to Improve
- Not having reverse after having it is a nightmare. I like to find fish, sit above them and stop. I’ll be looking at getting the 180 drive
- The chilli bin setup and rods need to go. Something I am working on
- Install a rod holder on the right-hand side by the seat for rigging and trolling
- Install some new side handles for loading
- A fixed rear handle for loading and unloading
- In rough water the rudder doesn’t bite enough, I’m going to make a bigger one
- The steering is tight always and low to the water making winter fishing a cold fingered experience. I’d like to raise this on an H rail
2 thoughts on “Compass Rigging 101”
Hey Marty, if your not using the live well, get yourself a foldup bin from bunnings. Same size, HD solid as a rock. Folds down flat.
38 bucks. Saves heaps of space 2hen travelling.
I take a couple of dry bags. One under deck with towels, spare cloths.
Second is small. It takes an ice block, water, food etc.
Hobie H Rail with rod holders.rods can be at 45% out side of dragonfly lying flat.
There is nothing worse in a Yak than a bid fish going behind you. Those rods will lose a good fish for you every time. I use shock cord on a tiny S/steel carabina for everything. Clipped allocer Yak. When finished, just clip them all together on the one carabina, Knife, grips, pliers, braid scissors etc. I have a large set of S/S grippers with 10mm shock cord.
That big fish can be lip gripped with out bringing it onto Yak. Head to shore with out losing a winning fish.
Hope it can assist you or your clients. Upgrading to a DF PRO 7 from a 5 so i will be getting another Berlypro sun screen.
Thanks man some great tips there! I’ve got a few things I want to do I’m going to get into them shortly and I’ll keep some posts going :D